timetable | The Natural Building Site

survey plan of the proposed site.

Event:

Workshop design

Notes:

a process of continual research into materials that are natural, sustainable and low embodied energy, and techniques which are not overly labour-intensive and can be replicated effectively in future construction. The fruits of this research are reflected in the various pages of this website.

Completed.
April '09.

Establish Streamside Development Permit Area

the environmental planning officer for Saanich has established the highwater point for Beaverdale Creek. From this we can measure how far from the edge of the creek we have to be in order to avoid the expense of applying for a permit!

Completed.
April '09.

Geodetic surveyor to establish floodplain elevation and property line

the BC Land surveyor has completed a survey of the property and produced a map showing the required setback from the creek, numerous geodetic elevations for the floodplain and the property line. From this we have been able to calculate the area in which we can build.

Completed.
July '09.

Apply for a variance for our setback from Markham Street

The Saanich Board of Variance has granted us the necessary permission to build the workshop closer to the road than the bylaws require. In this case we will be 3.5 mts back from our property line instead of 7.5.

A metric tonne of quicklime has been purchased. Most of this will be used to 'stabilise' my rammed earth foundation wall. The remainder will be slaked into lime putty for the final plaster coat on the exterior walls.

About a quarter of a tonne of quicklime has been slaked into seven barrels of lime putty. This will be stored for a year until we are ready to apply the finish coat on the walls. Pictures of the slaking process can be seen on the photos page.

Completed.
July '09.

Sedimentation and shrinkage tests were performed on samples of soil from a pit on the site. The results of this indicated that we have a very suitable, clay-rich, soil with a limited tendancy to shrink (about 10%). Pictures of the test results can be seen on the photos page. Keep in mind that you may need to check with your local utility companies before digging!

Stabilisation testing

A sample of the clay from my site was tested for me by the Chemical Lime Co down in Texas to establish the optimum ratio of lime needed to ensure adequate stabilisation for the rammed earth walls. The process is known as the 'Eades and Grim pH test' and conducted in accordance with ASTM 6276. Based on this test, I need 4% lime in my clay for optimal stabilisation. My sincere thanks to Eric Berger from the Chemical Lime Co for offering to do this testing for free.

Proctor Curve testing

Once the Stabilisation test has been completed and we know the correct amount of lime to add, samples of our proposed soil will undergo a 'Proctor Curve' test which establishes the correct amount of moisture required to obtain optimum compression. This test will probably be done by Levelton Engineering.

We will be creating test samples of lime-stabilised rammed earth, using various different lime / earth combinations along with Pumice and Perlite and other additives to establish the correct mixture of materials necessary to provide the best balance of strength and insulation we need for our foundation stem wall.

Apply for our building permit

the culmination of all the research and design.

Source and buy our Fir for the post and beam structure

preferably recycled lumber, or else from FSC-certified sustainable sources.

Begin work on the post and beam structure

a process that may take much of the winter as all the joints will be made using traditional joinery. Most of this work will be done in my existing basement workshop.

Dig the foundation trench

When the weather permits, the trench will be be dug down to below the frost line (18 inches in our area). The bottom must slope away to ensure adequate drainage. Our trench will probably go down 24 inches to ensure adequate footing.

Install the rubble trench

The trench will be filled with a few inches of rubble in the bottom, a 4 inch perforated drain pipe, and then a lot more drain rock up to grade.

Build up the forms for creating the stem wall along the top of the rubble trench

6 inches is required but, depending on the grade, I would expect to 'lift' the stem wall by a minimum of 10 inches.

Cast the stem wall along the rubble trench

Based on the results of our compression tests, a mixture of clay soil, lime, pumice, perlite, hemp or horse hair, and linseed oil will be used to build our foundation stem wall. This work will begin once the days begin to warm again in the Spring.

Start work on erecting the post and beam structure

Once the stem wall has developed sufficient compressive strength, we will gradually erect the components of the post and beam supporting structure. This will be done by a series of 'barn-raising' work parties to which willing and able volunteers are invited!

Install the roof structure

When the post and beams are in place, we'll build the roof and install a waterproof membrane. This will probably have to be a rubber EPDM sheet (like a pond liner). Although made from petrochemicals, it is probably the best option since the living roof is so environmentally-friendly, and the membrane can be recycled at the end of the buildings life. The actual living roof will not be added until the end of the construction process.

Source and buy our straw bales

We will need about 500-600 bales and these will need to be sourced and ordered in advance, even though I do not expect delivery until the Summer.

The BIG EVENT! Once the bales have arrived, it will be 'all hands on deck' as we erect the infill walls in preparation for plastering.

Plastering the walls

Once the bale walls are up, we will be into the first (scratch) coat of plaster as soon as possible in order to protect the straw from the elements. The second (brown) coat, and final (finish) coat will follow about 10 days to 2-weeks later depending on the dryness of the previous coats.

Building the living roof

Once the walls are finished, we will undertake the task of creating the living roof, with layers of drain rock, soil, grass and flowers.